I'm usually wary of restaurants that offer more than three dishes — tacos don't belong on the same menu as pizza and pasta — but Burlington's Kismayo Kitchen makes an exception, where a Philly cheesesteak shares space with samosas and Somali beef pasta. And lo and behold, it works.
I walked into the little red-roofed restaurant at 505 Riverside Avenue looking for a hearty lunch to order at the counter. The Kismayo sandwich ($10.99) was just that, served hot and nestled in a cloud-like 8-inch roll with a juicy, vinegary halal chicken thigh, sautéed onions and peppers, iceberg lettuce, tomato, and more undisclosed house sauce than I was happy to dip into. I rounded out the meal by sipping a homely Somali tea ($2.50), a milk-based black spiced chai that satisfied my sweet tooth.
Kismayo Kitchen is run primarily by women: owner Anisa Mohamed, her sister-in-law Asha Omar, and her nieces Amina, Baja, Kamal, and Safiya Ibrahim, who cook and serve. Mohamed is a widow, and Omar is the sister of Kismayo's former chef-owner, Ahmed Omar. Omar passed away unexpectedly last year, and the female team reopened the tiny restaurant eight months ago to keep his legacy alive.
Nearly everything on the menu comes in under the $12 Dining on a Dime limit without sacrificing quantity or the quality of ingredients.Next on my list of dishes to try is a bowl of chicken coconut stew ($10.99) paired with two crispy beef samosas ($5.99).
There's a reason locals keep coming to Kismayo Kitchen. Mohamed's friendly smile greets the diverse group of patrons as they enter the restaurant: sweaty kids after soccer games, couples on awkward first dates, ski buffs, DoorDashers, and solo diners. Sandwiches are served in nostalgia-inducing red plastic fry tubs, tables are draped with perfectly sticky plaid tablecloths, and the aroma of sizzling meat wafts through the air. There's something for everyone at Kismayo Kitchen, from no-frills potato salad ($5.99) for picky eaters to Somali goat with rice ($18.99) for the more adventurous.
I spoke with Mohammed about the chicken sandwich, and as a self-described “bread lover,” she explained that the sandwich was born out of a love for crusty bread: “I wanted the bread to be dry but edible,” she said, and that she wanted the taste to be “familiar but a little different.”
From its affordable prices to its expansive menu, Kismayo Kitchen is a restaurant that reflects its diverse community. Dining at this eclectic Somali-inspired cafe makes me feel like I'm sitting at my mother's kitchen table, like someone is holding my hand while I try something new. And that's intentional. “If someone comes to our restaurant for the first time, we offer them tea for free. That's what Omar did,” Mohamed explained.
Her own ideal lunch order? Pasta with spicy Somali beef ($13.99) and, of course, tea.
Dining on a Dime is a series showcasing delicious, filling à la carte meals (meals that are more substantial than a small meal) under $12. Know a delicious dish we should feature? Let us know! [email protected].
