When Brian Reeder, Lo Levy and Nick Greidinger opened their first restaurant in 2016, the fast-casual world was a bit of a one-trick pony world. Vessel KitchenSure, we've all enjoyed places that fulfilled that slightly upscale fast-food model, but rice bowls and burritos left too much to the imagination, so when a trio of local restaurateurs opened Vessel Kitchen with a balanced menu that knew how to work the food pyramid, it was a smash hit.
In the eight years since Vessel first opened, it's expanded to seven locations across the Wasatch Front, with an eighth set to open in American Fork later this summer. It's managed to survive through the 2020 pandemic thanks to its to-go menu and wide range of plant-based options, but it recently underwent an extensive remodel. I spoke with co-founder Brian Reeder at Vessel's ninth location to discuss how a brand with seven different locations can change up its menu while still keeping its fans satisfied. (Spoiler alert: It's pretty tough.)
This isn't the first time Vessel has changed its menu; in fact, changes were more frequent prior to 2020. “Menu changes have been a constant for the first few years we've been in business,” Reeder said. “It's always difficult because you want to get people excited about new things, but when you remove something that's a favorite from the menu, some people react with intense passion and anger.”
While I'm the kind of customer who loves to try new, cool things, I do understand the customer who, as Reeder puts it, “broke down in tears because roasted Brussels sprouts were off the menu.” We rely on our favorite dishes to stay afloat in a world of chaos, so it's a shock when that modicum of consistency suddenly disappears. And whoever this customer was, they'll be okay because roasted Brussels sprouts are back on the menu.
My reaction to the new menu items has been mostly positive. For example, the new specialty bowl known as Uncle Rico ($15) is, well,… that Uncle Rico, you Napoleon Dynamite Vessel's new Good and Plenty Bowl is a major improvement over the original Good and Plenty Bowl. It keeps the creamy mashed potatoes, adds a vibrant chile verde to the pulled pork, and is topped with Vessel's newest additions: macha corn, guajillo crema, and cotija cheese. I've always been a fan of the Good and Plenty, but like most of Vessel's new menu changes, this one tastes better than the original.
The new menu has a more pronounced Latin influence, which is thanks to Vessel's new executive chef, Andrew Schroeder. “He comes from a very diverse background,” says Reeder. “It's kind of Southern California-Mexican with a little bit of Asian influence. We wanted him to make the menu his own and bring his own personality to it.”
Schroeder has extensive experience with innovative fast-casual concepts; prior to joining the Vessel team, he was regional chef at Crack Shack in Southern California. “He fits in really well with the team,” said Reeder. “We all take our jobs seriously, but we also try to have fun and not take ourselves too seriously, and Andrew is really integrated into all of that.”
After tasting Vessel's latest menu items, our conversation eventually turned to logistics. One of the reasons Vessel Kitchen is so popular is because it's carved out a very specific fast-casual niche for itself. Recreating those specific flavors and dishes across seven different locations is no easy feat, so Vessel's core culinary team occupies a central supply facility and prepares and delivers specific dishes to each location as needed.
In the five years since Vessel made its menu changes, the brand has grown significantly. “We've always wanted to grow, but without sacrificing quality and consistency,” Reeder says. “We have a hub-and-spoke model. Whatever we can make better in our stores, we make it there. But whatever we can make more consistently in our central kitchen, we make it there.”
As Vessel Kitchen continues to evolve to meet the needs of modern diners while staying true to the roots established by its founders, Reeder and his co-founders' passion remains the same. This passion for creating delicious food that's a little more balanced than what fast-casual diners are accustomed to has a noticeable impact on local options today. Through Vessel's influence, the local dining scene has grown to include several healthier fast-casual dining options.
