Osaka, Japan
CNN
—
Let's be honest, Osaka doesn't have Tokyo's mind-blowing urban sprawl, with a world of adventure in every direction, nor does it have Kyoto's historic temples, tree-covered hills and ancient history.
But there are two main attractions that visitors to Japan look for: the best food in the country and funky, fun-loving people.
This is the place to dine, enjoy rare craft beers, and experience a city where everyday pleasures come to the fore like no other.
Food is practically a religion in Osaka, which is now in the global spotlight as it prepares to host the World Expo in 2025. Known as the kitchen of Japan, foodies can start their journey exploring the myriad delicious cuisines in Osaka in Dotonbori.
The streets along the Dotonbori Canal between Dotonbori Bridge and Nipponbashi Bridge in Osaka's Namba district are the perfect place to spend a stomach-churning afternoon. You'll know you've come to the right place when you see a restaurant with giant animated models of crabs and octopuses towering above you, inviting you to come inside and dine.
Octopus is undoubtedly the star of takoyaki, Osaka's great gift to Japan. Made from dough balls stuffed with diced octopus and deep-fried until piping hot, takoyaki is a convenient grab-and-go snack that can be enjoyed anywhere.
But these aren't meant to be eaten all at once, says Junko Ogura, a Tokyo-based CNN producer.
“It's really hot,” she says, “but be careful, it's not all hot!”
Of course, few tourists would be able to resist this, even if it meant burning their mouths.
But takoyaki is just the beginning: as Junko explains, Osakans even have a proverb that describes their food obsession:
“Grill yourself”
It basically means “In Osaka, eat like you're going bankrupt.”
That goes for using chopsticks to pick the juicy crab meat from the shell, watching the chef work his magic, and eating the fresh sushi that's ready to be eaten.
At Sennichimae Doguyasuji (also known as the “Kitchen Shopping Street”), you can purchase the finest Japanese knives and cooking utensils so you can continue creating your own unique dishes even after you return home.
But there is one dish for which you should have a chunk of cash ready: Kobe beef, famous around the world for being so juicy and tasty. Easily available in Dotonbori and around Osaka, this delicacy is ahead of its time with its reputation.
This is meat raised to the most rigorous standards, and the price matches: a kilo of Kobe Grade 11 sirloin can sell for more than $300.
Take the Shinkansen It's only a 30-minute bullet train ride from central Osaka to Kobe. The cows are kept in harsh conditions just outside the city. Anyone who's been in Japan for less than seven days can't have contact with the cows. In fact, to speak to the farmers who look after the cows, CNN's Junko has to make a Zoom call.
When I asked how this cow was treated compared to other cows, the farmer was eager to explain.
“he [touches] “I try to see them as much as possible, talk to them, tell them 'They're cute, you look healthy, I love you,'” said Junko, who translated the farmers' words.
If that seems strange, add the well-known fact that farmers massage and stroke their cows. The farmers themselves say that although they are sad to see the cows they cared for being slaughtered after three years of looking after them, they are happy knowing that the cows are bringing happiness to the people who eat them.
Juicy and melt-in-your-mouth, Kobe beef is arguably the best beef on the planet and a must-try on any foodie outing in Osaka.
Osaka is home to some of Japan's most passionate baseball fans.
After a big meal, a little exercise is often in order. Like much of Japan, Osaka is crazy about baseball, which has been a fixture in the region since it was first introduced in 1872.
Today, baseball is played by all ages, from kids in Little League to seniors in their 80s who enjoy pick-up games on summer afternoons.
But the games are just as much fun to watch as they are to play in. The local team, the Hanshin Tigers, is one of the oldest baseball teams in Japan. Founded in 1936, the team briefly ran as the Osaka Tigers before moving back to Hanshin, 20 minutes west, and playing at Koshien Stadium.
Long considered an underdog, the Tigers won the 2023 Japan Series, breaking a 38-year-old curse known as the “Curse of the Colonel,” which is believed to have been caused by an over-excited fan who threw a statue of KFC legend Colonel Sanders into Dotonbori during the Tigers' last championship in 1985.
Avid fans attend every game, including local resident Takada, who spoke about his priorities as he waited in the stands for a rain-delayed match to start.
“The Hanshin Tigers are number one,” he says with a smile. “The Hanshin Tigers. Then my family. Then my work and career.”
Takada said that when the Tigers won the championship in 2023, he hugged his friends and cried until tears came out of his nose. Even if today's game is canceled, his spirits will not be dampened.
While Osakans' fun-loving, playful attitude seems to lies in their love of non-stop action, you can take a break in one of the city's many fantastic hot springs.. These natural hot springs are part of traditional culture and require their own etiquette. Tattoos must be covered, as historically in Japan body art was seen as something only the Yakuza wore. Participants must be nude and are separated into male and female baths, where they wash and prepare their bodies for a long soak after a hard day at work.
Onsen emphasizes “naked friendship”, where everyone is equal, just like in the sauna culture of Finland or Estonia. There are many onsen in the beautiful countryside around Osaka, but it's also easy to find public baths in the city center, making them an ideal place to spend time and meet locals, even if you're naked.
Osaka is, after all, a city of flavor and friendship, a place where you can dine in luxury and spend time with people who care about the best food and ensuring everyone receives the best hospitality. This is evident in its restaurants, baseball stadiums, hot springs, and more. You have to give it your all somewhere and accept the fact that you might end up “eating your fill.”
Tokyo and Kyoto are known as the have-it-all cities in Japan, but it's important to make time to visit Osaka as well.