“What I like most about Latin food is how similar it is to Asian food. It's very accessible. For example, one of my favorite dishes is ceviche. When I hear ceviche, it reminds me of Thai food, with its sourness, lots of spices, and fresh herbs. There are also a variety of salsas, such as sambal, Red “In Malaysia, we have tortillas, which are similar to roti,” the Malaysian chef said. Adrian Cheung Yen of Sol Kitchen & Baris the only Latin American restaurant featured in the Michelin Guide Vietnam 2024 edition and was recently awarded a Bib Gourmand.
Yen’s journey began when she was 15 years old and watched Anthony Bourdain’s “Kitchen ConfidentialThat inspired him to drop out of high school and enter the restaurant world. After honing his skills in Singapore, he learned the value of relentless dedication: first to arrive, last to leave. Following his intuition and taking a chance in Vietnam, his career faced its biggest test during the COVID-19 pandemic. With many businesses retreating, Yen and his partners expanded their business, creating Sol Kitchen & Bar in a bold move that ensured their survival and growth.
Chef Adrian Chong Yen at Sol Kitchen & Bar. (© Mervin Lee/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam)
“Given the many similarities in culture and taste, it's easy to imagine that Asians will continue to embrace Latin American cuisine,” said Mariah Carey's “FantasyWith 90s hits like “I Know What You Want” playing in the background, the atmosphere perfectly matches the chef's vibrant energy – the life force, joy and passion behind the food that makes him so passionate about it.
“The relaxed atmosphere is the perfect complement to the Latin American cuisine created by Malaysian chef Adrian Chong Yen, who worked in Singapore for 12 years. His à la carte menu is diverse and mouthwatering, with dishes such as Mexican empanadas, Peruvian scallop ceviche and Italian burrata salad. Sol is also renowned for its red meats, such as marinated steaks with chimichurri sauce, barbecued ribs with fish sauce and whole roasted chicken with mojo sauce.” Written by a Michelin inspector.
But Yen's favorite dish is the soft shell crab chicharron. It's a playful dish that perfectly embodies Yen's culinary philosophy: “I like to keep it simple. I try not to have more than three ingredients in any dish. Simplicity is always best.”
The specialty is soft-shell crab chicharron. (© Mervin Lee/ MICHELIN Guide Vietnam)
Soft shell crab chicharron dish
“The idea came to me during those late-night snack cravings – when you come home from a night out, it's late, you're sitting on the couch and you just want something to eat. That's usually when I'm most creative,” says the tattooed chef.
One night, he was craving guacamole and chips and thought, “Instead of using chips as usual, wouldn't it be great if I could use a different bowl to scoop the guacamole in?” And so his signature dish was born.
“I guess you could say that was the eureka moment,” he says.
The science behind cooking
Yen says he used guacamole as a canvas and after many failed and successful research and development attempts, he came up with the idea of using soft-shell crab.
“The beauty of this dish lies in its simplicity. Guacamole has long been a staple on our menu, so introducing a new version to our guests had to be distinctive,” Yen says.
He searched for a variety of crispy textures and proteins that would complement the delicate flavor of the guacamole. The solution was to start with the classics: they tried crispy pork belly, fried chicken, chicken skin, and charred barbecue meat. But these tasty dishes were too heavy for appetizers, and so they fell flat. “What about seafood?” the chef asks, reflecting on the development process. “We tried crispy calamari, deep-fried egg fish, and fluffy catfish.”
Soft-shell crab was the final piece of his puzzle. “Not only does it look good, but it's also packed with flavors of the sea. Combined with the richness of the guacamole, it was exactly the flavor combination I was looking for – a sort of surf-and-turf guacamole style.”
Yen and his staff at Sol Kitchen & Bar in Saigon. (© Mervin Lee/MICHELIN Guide Vietnam)
But the challenges didn't end there – it's a constant battle for perfection. The team worked on fine-tuning the batter that coated the crab, which was the most time-consuming part. “We wanted the batter to be as light and crispy as possible, so we ended up with a batter made with 70% vodka, because the alcohol evaporates quickly and leaves behind a very thin and crispy layer.”
Once the batter is done, it's finished with a lightly pickled red onion and coriander salad, and of course, smoked salmon roe for extra umami flavor. The crunchy dish is served with an anchovy salsa for added heat.
The secret of his famous dish
“The secret to this dish is to prepare it with love!” Of course, the finishing touch is the chef's passion to ensure that the Latin flavors are perfectly seasoned for diners. “All kidding aside, I think the secret is simply a well-fried crab and the perfect texture and flavor of the guacamole.”
The energetic chef concludes: “I firmly believe that food shouldn't be complicated, but should achieve the perfect balance of flavours and textures. Combining these three ingredients creates a well-balanced dish, which very much represents our philosophy.”
