Backyard Gardener (Photo illustration/MetroCreative)
Hello, I'm a Mid-Ohio Valley gardener and farmer. This week I would like to discuss planting a historic or colonial home garden. The Wood County Master Gardeners planted a vegetable garden at Henderson Hall near Williamstown. This is the home of Williamstown's Henderson family for five generations. The vegetables and herbs grown in the Heritage Garden are based on letters from the Henderson family that were researched by Master His gardener volunteers.
First of all, I would like to say that there was no specific content. “Herb garden”. Many people consider these “Home garden” Because they were very practical and served the purpose of providing food, medicine, seasonings, and flavorings. I planted vegetables mixed with herbs. However, pungent herbs were separated from vegetables.
Large vegetables such as snap beans, pole beans, sweet corn, and pumpkins were grown in large suburban fields. Fruit trees were incorporated into the garden from the outer edges to the central focal point of the garden square.
Most European and colonial gardens evolved from Tudor and medieval gardening styles. Colonial gardens in the United States were very diverse and influenced by early immigrants and their own heritage. Settlers from France, England, the Netherlands, and Germany created gardens that reflected the traditions of their homelands.
Plants brought into the colony included vegetables, herbs, flowers, bulbs, and fruit trees. They were placed in gardens filled with plants native to the United States, including tobacco, corn, and other vegetables, trees, flowering shrubs, vines, and wildflowers.
Corn was a major food source for the colonies and Native Americans. Colonial families grew significant amounts of corn to make cornmeal. Native Americans had been using ground corn and flour in their cooking for years, but colonists quickly adapted to growing this staple food.
Cornmeal's popularity increased around the time of the Civil War. Corn was plentiful and inexpensive, and cornbread and other dishes made from cornmeal were quick and easy meals.
Gardens varied depending on the needs of the settlers. The size of the garden was proportional to the number of family members. In rural areas, gardens were planted around structures such as buildings, fences, stables, walkways, and surrounding workshops. Most settlers did not put plants around the foundations of their houses, but this practice appeared in the late Victorian era.
Most colonial gardens focused on function and efficiency. The garden is laid out with square or rectangular raised beds surrounded by seedlings. This gives the gardener access to the entire garden space. Plants were usually closely spaced to save space, and walkways were made of earth, gravel, or crushed shells surrounding each flower bed.
Hedges and picket fences surround gardens to protect plants from animals and wind damage, but wooden fences may also be used. A larger central walkway leads to the focal point of the garden. It was usually a well or similar stone structure.
Settlers also took advantage of the property's hills, planting crops such as peas, lettuce, and radishes on south-facing slopes early in the season to take advantage of the warm soil.
When planting gardens, settlers considered things like sunlight and shade, proximity to water, and bees. Most gardeners had beehives placed close to their gardens to encourage pollination and help plants thrive. Herbs and flowers were also used as ingredients for many of the perfumes and soaps made in the colony.
Maintaining herb gardens was an essential part of colonial life. Dried herbal essences have a shelf life of less than six months, so it was important to properly harvest, dry, and store them. Planting, weeding, and harvesting were all important aspects of care.
Colonial gardens grew many herbs for cooking and seasoning. Rosemary, thyme, basil, chives, mint, sage, marjoram, savory, and oregano were delicious and aromatic herbs that were frequently cultivated.
An important use of herbs was medicine. Horehound was popular for stomach upset, and sassafras was important for dental cleansing. The astringent Kijimushiro was used to treat night sweats. Coriander was used for gastrointestinal problems and bad breath.
During the Revolutionary War, most colonists with home gardens mixed medicinal herbs such as hyssop, lavender, comfrey, and fennel with vegetables and flowers in their gardens. Soldiers at the time carried many herbs that were most effective against the ailments they were experiencing, including chamomile, mint, licorice, yarrow, horsetail, and sage.
Beans, squash, and cabbage were popular garden vegetables. Vegetables were often mentioned in colonial recipes. These included kale, mustard, Swiss chard, and turnip greens.
Parsnips, carrots, and potatoes were grown and often boiled or made into stews. The garden, containing small vegetables and flowers such as leeks, onions, garlic, carrots and cabbage herbs, was placed near the door of the house for quick and easy access.
The colonial garden featured a variety of flowers and flowering shrubs, including azaleas, sunflowers, hydrangeas, roses, English ivy, clematis, holly, and lilies. Other cultivated plants included columbine, crocus, bee balm, grape hyacinth, evening primrose, star of Bethlehem, and tulips. Flowers were also used to decorate homes, churches, taverns, hair, and clothing.
President Thomas Jefferson, America's founding father, was an avid gardener. English peas were his favorite vegetable, and he grew 23 different varieties in his garden at Monticello. Mr. Jefferson also noted that he harvests lettuce every month of the year and encouraged gardeners to sow a thimbleful of lettuce seeds each week from early spring through September.
Planting a colonial garden or home garden provides a glimpse into America's rich horticultural history here. “Old World” with europe “new world” The horticulture and culture of the great North American nation was shaped. If you have any questions, please contact the Wood County WVU Extension Office at 304-424-1960 or email jj.barrett@mail.wvu.edu. Good luck and enjoy gardening!
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This week's question: I have spotted beetles on my asparagus. what is that?
It's probably an asparagus beetle. Two species of asparagus beetles have been found in West Virginia: the asparagus beetle (Crioceris asparagi) and the spotted asparagus beetle (Crioceris duedecimpunctata).
Adults of both types of asparagus potato beetles are 1/4 inch long, with oval bodies and moderately long antennae. Adult asparagus potato beetles are bluish-black with six cream-colored spots on their backs. Adult asparagus are reddish-orange with 12 black spots. The asparagus beetle is often mistaken for a lady beetle, but it has a slightly more elongated body than similar species.
The larvae of both species are shaped like slugs, with their heads and legs visible. The common asparagus beetle larva is light gray with a black head, while the spotted asparagus beetle larva is orange. The larvae are about 6/100 of an inch long when they hatch, but as they grow they become rounded and about 1/3 inch long.
Asparagus potato beetles overwinter as adults in plant debris. In spring, the beetles feed on the tips of tender asparagus spears and shoots and lay eggs on the spears. The eggs hatch in about a week, and the larvae feed on spears and ferns alongside the adults.
Adults and larvae chew on asparagus shoots and leaves. Asparagus ears turn brown and become hooked when adult asparagus potato beetles of any species eat them. Larvae and adults of the common asparagus beetle can also feed on ferns.
When beetles eat leaves, they weaken the plant and reduce the plant's ability to provide sufficient nutrients for the next season. A lack of asparagus leaves also makes it a target for the fungal disease Fusarium.
Spotted asparagus potato larvae feed on asparagus fruit and do not affect the health of the plant. Asparagus beetle eggs on the spears can reduce the attractiveness of the asparagus. Eggs are laid on new shoots around the time of harvest. Although the eggs themselves are not harmful, some people find their presence on the spear unpleasant.
Below are some recommended control measures. Hand-picking is especially effective in small gardens. Drop the adults and larvae into a bucket filled with soapy water.
Harvest spears as soon as possible. Beetles are attracted to plants with an abundance of leaves. Gardeners sometimes leave a small portion of the crop unharvested as a decoy for beetles to attract while the rest of the crop is harvested. After harvesting, thoroughly remove garden and surrounding plant debris to eliminate overwintering sites for beetles.
Important natural enemies of the asparagus potato beetle include several species of ladybugs and small parasitic wasps (Tetrastichus asparagi). This wasp feeds on eggs and small larvae.
When using insecticides, spray or apply a botanical insecticide that contains pyrethrins as the active ingredient. Apply the treatment when you first notice larvae feeding on your plants. Organic products containing spinosad (Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew©) may also be used. Asparagus needs to be harvested frequently, so be sure to consider the pre-harvest interval (PHI) listed on the pesticide label.
