Food review: Add Mei's Kitchen to the list of eateries leading Anchorage's thriving Asian food scene

As a parent, I know I should expect more from my children than I do for myself, but I draw the line when it comes to Chinese food. My youngest daughter attends college a stone's throw from New York City's Chinatown, and through a series of photos of her eating dumplings, salt and pepper tofu, and sesame noodles, It represents her lifelong gratitude and respect for her mother. They can only be described as mocking. But while I respect her play, these hits aren't as hard as they were, say, 10 years ago. Because Anchorage's Asian food scene is thriving.

Add Midtown's Mei's Kitchen to the list. I had heard good things about this hole in the wall but never found the chance to try it. Last week, I didn't have much time and had company coming over, so I decided to ask Maze Kitchen to help me with the catering. Early bonus points awarded for a convenient online ordering system that works perfectly. My husband received his dinner, on time and piping hot, from the friendly owner and we were already off to a good start.

Mei's Kitchen combines traditional Chinese-American takeout staples with authentic Sichuan cuisine. For our feast, we chose small portions of fried eggs, sweet and spicy chicken wings, spicy noodle salad, shrimp fried rice, spicy chicken, and both Mongolian beef and chicken fried noodles.

There were two disappointing aspects, which I will explain. The Mongolian beef ($15.75) lacked flavor for me. I was looking for more…spices, salt, sweetness, sauces, everything. I was also blown away by the shrimp fried rice ($14.75). It was bland and tasteless. There was no charring from the wok and the rice grains felt like they were overcooked, giving them a texture that was too soft. In a great fried rice dish, the grains should be evident after a few bites. That said, the shrimp were delicious and the ingredients were fresh. Although it was a complete meal, it was served more as a plated side dish than as a main course.

For diners who can't start a Chinese-American meal without an egg roll (me!), their egg rolls were crispy and well rolled, with a filling that tasted good but was a little bland ( $7.75). We fixed these with a dipping sauce and were satisfied, but we hit the bar without raising the bar.

Everything else was a hit. We loved the sweet and spicy chicken wings ($9.75) and held a moment of silence for those who missed out that night (we got our last order). These are plump, charred and chewy, with a wonderful shiny glaze that will leave your fingers happily sticky. Pair these meaty chicken wings with a noodle dish for a delicious and hearty main dish.

The Spicy Noodle Salad ($13.75) was very delicious. The thin and smooth noodles are topped with a spicy dressing that will numb your tongue. It's packed with flavor without being brutally spicy. Plenty of fresh herbs cool this dish and bring aroma and nuance to this light and sweet dish. It will soon be on my list of summer destinations and will be on many a picnic table in the Severin household this season.

The Hot & Spicy Chicken ($15.75) was also one of our favorite dishes. Thinly sliced, tender chicken is cooked in a complex spice blend (I think it includes the homey, heartwarming flavor of Chinese five spices) with slices of bell pepper and onion. This dish was full of flavor.

Chicken Chow Mein ($14.75) is a bowl of pure comfort. The noodles were perfectly cooked, lightly sautéed with slightly chewy sweet onion slices, and plenty of flavorful chicken. The sauce has a perfect balance of sweetness and flavor. This is the perfect version of the classic and a dish you can eat every day.

All dishes, even those we weren't too excited about, were generously portioned, tasted freshly prepared, and were pleasantly light. The dishes didn't swim in the sauce or weigh down my hands with too much cooking oil. After sampling all the dishes, I felt satisfied but in no danger of falling into a food coma. When it comes to me and Chinese food, it's always a risk.

Mei's Kitchen is a friendly, family-owned restaurant serving carefully prepared traditional American-Chinese cuisine. I love welcoming new additions to Anchorage's growing Asian food scene. We may not have a Chinatown, but I'm glad that the city now has good Chinese people. That makes my daughter's New York City gourmet selfies a little more tolerable.

If you go:

maize kitchen

3609 Arctic Boulevard

(907) 771-8168

https://meiskitchenak.com/

Monday to Friday: 12:00pm to 8:00pm

Saturday and Sunday: 2pm – 8pm

***1/2

$$