Johnnycakes Chicken Pot Pie. Photo by Angel Tucker
If you're looking straight ahead at the water, it's easy to miss the surf shack beds. & Breakfast operates from an unassuming turquoise house just steps from the beach in the town of Narragansett. It rents out six rooms, each with a Margaritaville vibe that's a counterpoint to the summertime coastline frenzy. Guests aren't there to show off, they just show up when the sun shines and the waves roll in.
Roti plate. Photo by Angel Tucker
There's little pretense in the space, which is one of the reasons locals flock to the 60-seat restaurant even in the off-season. The dining room, called the Kitchen at the Shack, is similarly laid-back, with aqua-hued shiplap walls and weathered wood frames framing images of the prettiest beaches. Heavy, lacquered surfboards serve as tables, and people of all ages perch on stools, sipping cocktails and contemplating the oncoming weather.
But the restaurant's heart is actually in the back corner, where a circular bar that seats 20 people is crowded with people in flip-flops and T-shirts, who know each other's names and are ritualistically greeted by the bartender as they enter. The merriment here is a mix of Mother Nature and People who came in tonight to reflect on what went wrong under her watch.
But there's another poetic discourse in this tiki-style world, that of executive chef Momo Kamara, who, despite Surf Shack's laid-back mantra, is intent on making this corner of New England a place for the full exploration of Polynesian and Asian cultures. Kamara himself is originally from the Ivory Coast, and his culinary career, which began with a formal culinary career at Johnson & Wales, represents a variety of geographic influences, but the concept of the dish was there before he arrived.
Beignets. Photo by Angel Tucker
The owners of this bed and breakfast, Christina and Lindsay Holmes, spent their honeymoon in the French Polynesian islands and wanted to capture the spirit of this rich blend of cultures in their surf shack. But what Kamala has done with this idea is remarkable: his menu blends South Pacific and French inspirations with elements of the Far East. Moreover, he does it in a way that fully convinces diners that different cultures are more than just coexisting; they create a fusion exponentially greater than any of the individual cultures. American audiences may take the whole experience as vaguely Hawaiian, but every dish contains a reminder that this little beachfront establishment is a homage to the rest of the world.
Fricko Fry. Photo by Angel Tucker
If you think “fusion” cuisine is a contrived approach, try Kamala's beach buns ($12), which are incredibly soft and smeared with roasted garlic butter, togarashi and truffle honey. Like the rest of the menu, the dish seems complicated and overdone, but is entirely straightforward. There are also bao buns ($16) stuffed with pork belly and kimchi, which are deep-fried and offer a chewy, crispy and rich snack with an appealing texture and flavor.
Ask any chef and they'll tell you that food is a great communication tool. It often communicates and expresses more intuitively than language. This perspective is fundamental here. Kamala's dishes are made with opposing ingredients like dashi stock, salted lemons, gochujang and Parmesan cheese, yet they inevitably end up harmonious.
True, some dishes speak in a single language; the perfectly roasted chicken breast with truffle-and-parsnip puree ($30) is entirely French. It's the kind of precursor from which all the other dishes evolved, acknowledging the influence of French technique but rejecting a myopically focused menu. In an age when people still eat chilli crisps by spooning them out of the jar, Kitchen at the Shack is hell-bent on mass-produced everything.
Steak tostadas. Photo by Angel Tucker
The pork dumplings ($22) are the menu's linchpin, doused in “chili garlic sauce,” which is a decidedly understated description; the combination is rich and earthy, with a nice balance of flattering heat and sizzle. Even the miso black cod ($32), which looks pretty on the plate but combines savory (soy sauce), heat (cucumber kimchi), bright (lemongrass salsa verde) and sweet, and is served with coconut rice to make it a complete meal in one dish.
But the bar operates on its own orbit; many of its clientele don't eat platters, but still get the island vibe. The cocktails, and non-alcoholic ones, are ornately stylized; some come in snifters with chilli peppers floating on top, others in oversized goblets with sprigs of fresh mint adorning the rim. Food-wise, the options lean towards utensil-free dining; a particular standout is a small pile of lamb riblets baked or fried with homemade barbecue sauce and Thai basil.
For those who just can't get enough of summer, there's American fare on offer, including burgers ($21), macaroni and cheese ($14), and fries. Desserts are also mostly American, including a chocolate torte with toasted marshmallows ($12), but island fruit makes regular appearances, again highlighting the coastal vibe.
Salmon tartare. Photo by Angel Tucker
But Kamala's talents are so wide-ranging that to tread the well-worn path would be to miss an opportunity to travel. Even better, he's created a dining room that's surprisingly fun.
The world is full of serious chefs, many of them determined to prove themselves in an increasingly hierarchical, media-driven industry. That's not the chef at the helm here; Kamala's goal is simply to elevate the gift of food across the planet.
On most nights, he's walking around, smiling and bringing food to tables, engaging in conversation, but even from the kitchen, his enthusiasm is contagious. It's surprising to see food of this calibre being served in such an understated setting, but it's clear that the surfing ethos is a perfect fit for this restaurant. When the main goal is to be at one with the joy of the natural world, it's easy to understand why this particular American culture is so ripe for some seriously delicious food that hits its doorstep.
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Cabin kitchen
Chef Stacey Dietz. Photo by Angel Tucker.
83 Narragansett Ave., Narragansett, 642-5900, surfshacknarragansett.com
Open daily for dinner.
Wheelchair accessible. Off street parking available.
cooking: French Polynesians are very widespread.
capacity: 60 indoor rooms and outdoor patio There are 27 seats.
atmosphere: Kelly Slater meets Alain Ducasse.
price: Share plates: $12-22, large plates: $18-42, desserts: $10-12.
Karen recommends: Dumplings, baozi and miso cod are easy choices, but it's worth perusing the menu.
