Catfish po-boy from Highland Kitchen in Somerville. (Photo: Sakurako K., via Yelp)
With so many restaurants coming and going, the concept of homely comfort is less important. Many of the longest-standing forts tend to be in and around Union Square, making it home to one of the most diverse melting pots of food culture and social atmosphere. When it comes to cozy spots, the J and J Restaurant near McGrath and O'Brien Underpass and The Neighborhood Restaurant & Bakery on Bow Street come to mind. Both have a Portuguese influence and are family-run, so they have a homely feel. I also have my eye on Highland Kitchen. Highland Kitchen isn't old per se, with tragically hip happenings like B-Side/Deluxe Café. – and I say that in the most flattering sense.
Sadly, the B-side is a thing of the past (now called Lord Hobo), but Boston's Deluxe is still going strong, and these days they offer carrot tacos. Although Highland is popular and there can sometimes be long lines to get a seat (deluxe is no different), it's a place where you can come, kick back, relax, forget about the world and enjoy it. Yes, that's what Highland has done. Consistently since 2007.
Highland's menu always has a distinct bayou/southern feel. Spicy jambalaya, goat stew (not served until Brady time!), gumbo, and fried chicken are on the bone. It's about the long-defunct Tim's Tavern in the Back Bay, which served the best hushpuppies this man had ever tasted, unparalleled crawfish-filled gumbo chook, and alligator stew. Reminds me. Green Street Grill in Central Square served similar dishes in the early days, but that too has closed. The Highlands follows these traditions, and there's something unique about it that works so well, and by focusing on it, we get a hard-to-score table in the rave du jour of topical cuisine. It creates a destination dining experience without the glitz and punch of a restaurant.
The ingredients are simple, but the blend is complex. My pick here is the trusty andouille and chicken gumbo with the obligatory okra in a stomach-warming gravy surrounding a heaping pile of jasmine rice. It's filling, not spicy, and as an appetizer you won't be left full for the next indulgence. Spicy jambalaya is great with duck confit to go with andouille, shrimp and jamon, but there's also a vegetable variation with Beyond meat and blackened carrots.
But I'm a fan of Highland's blackened catfish po'boy. This is served on a very fresh baguette with remoulade sauce and relish. The darkening spices add plenty of heat, the sauce and relish offset nicely, and it all comes together nicely on the soft French bread. The fish is always tender and moist and never overcooked. They've got it down to a science in the kitchen.
There are also fun sides like sweet potato mash, and there's also fried plantains on the appetizer menu. Another great aspect of the Highland experience is the friendly bartenders and waitstaff that add to that homely comfort. The Highland has a typical neighborhood feel while also offering an evening dining experience.
highland kitchen, 150 Highland AvenueSpring Hill, Somerville
Tom Meek is a writer living in Cambridge. His reviews, essays, short stories, and articles have appeared in WBUR ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper, and his SLAB literary magazine. Tom is also a member of the Boston Film Critics Association and rides his bike everywhere.
