NEW MARLBOROUGH — I recently heard that Michelle Ragusis, a judge on “Beat Bobby Flay” and contestant on “Chopped,” is now executive chef at Gedney Kitchen.
Without hesitation, Cato donned his clean uniform and polished shoes and drove Auburn through the rural countryside to the restaurant.
Auburn is nestled in a dirt parking lot and we make our way into the rustic yet sophisticated barn. We're warmly greeted as we descend a wide staircase and shown to a table for two, which leads to a cozy bar and a row of exposed wood tables. The restaurant's glass exterior opens up to al fresco dining.
Kato sat facing the crowd, torn between his duty to serve and his desire to relax and enjoy a memorable meal, and we were not disappointed.
Best mocktails
Our server served us some of the best mocktails we've ever tasted, made simply by stating our flavor preferences. I chose cranberry and Kato chose pineapple. They were sour, bitter, sweet, colorful, and you could swear they had alcohol in them. They were the perfect stylish appetizers to pore over the carefully curated menu. On the night we dined, I chose the stranglegrapreti appetizer and Kato chose the warm mushroom salad. From the six main course choices, I chose the cioppino and Kato chose the halibut saltimbocca.
As we enjoyed our drinks while waiting for our first course, I admired the local artwork that adorned the rustic barn walls, while Kato surveyed the diners, most of whom were well-heeled weekenders in their sixties. Every table was filled.
A pleasant appetizer
Strangola preti, which means “priest's choker” in Italian, are dumplings of spinach, cheese, sage and breadcrumbs. Chef Ragusis' version was presented like a work of art, resting on a pool of juicy brown butter surrounded by a ring of balsamic reduction. It tasted so light and ethereal, I didn't let a bewildered Kato eat even a bite.
Strangola preti, light and flavoursome spinach, cheese and breadcrumb dumplings, were one of the dishes enjoyed by cereal eaters during a spring visit to Gedney Kitchen in New Marlborough.
The use of mascarpone cheese in addition to Parmesan adds a new dimension to this beautiful dish. At $15 for two dumplings, I had no qualms. This is a precise, imaginative dish, and even a bite or two is quite satisfying, given the layers of flavor and the attention to detail in the presentation.
Kato asked if we wanted to share a salad, and we gratefully accepted: woodsy, crunchy, perfectly cooked mushrooms were the star of the plate, accompanied by chicory and guanciale lardons, all bathed in a guanciale vinaigrette.
The whole thing is topped with a crispy egg. The breadcrumb crust encases the perfectly soft interior and is delicious when combined with the mushrooms and vegetables. This salad is very simple yet layered with flavors. The savory mushrooms, bitter chicory and seductive egg yolk create an unforgettable experience.
A crispy egg with a soft-boiled yolk sits atop a warm mushroom salad with frisée and lardons.
Tastefully presented main dishes
The enticing aroma of Marsala arrived at our table seconds before Cato's flounder saltimbocca was served, capturing our attention and building anticipation. My cioppino followed. Cato's flounder was flavorful, with a caramelized crust and plenty of mushrooms surrounding it that had soaked up the Marsala sauce. The accompanying celery root and potato mash were superb, creating a silky texture and a taste that was both sweet and starchy, something neither element could achieve on its own.
The halibut saltimbocca served by Gedney Kitchen during Cereal Eater's spring visit comes on top of creamy celery root and potato mash.
Kato gestured casually but firmly to my plate, which I'd momentarily forgotten was still there, because I'd been so engrossed in the flounder. I nodded in understanding and took my fork away from my mashed potatoes.
Cioppino is served elegantly in a small ceramic bowl with grilled bread framing the shellfish and rich tomato sauce. Clams, scallops, halibut and mussels swim in the warm sauce. Every bite offers a slightly different taste, from sweet clams to earthy mussels to firm halibut. The grilled bread does a great job of soaking up the sauce, removing just enough moisture to add a crunchy bite to the tender fish.
I reluctantly shared my scallop with Kato-san, who closed his eyes and chewed slowly, savoring each bite.
From the short list of desserts read out by the waiter, Kato-san said he wanted to order coffee ice cream, and I tasted it. It's no exaggeration to say that it was one of the best ice creams I've ever tasted. It was smooth like drinking cream, and the coffee had a hint of caramel, not too bitter, and not at all sweet. We both agreed that there must be some clever tricks going on in this kitchen.
Updated daily
The menu is updated daily at 4:30 p.m., so check online for the latest menu. A recent menu offered appetizers of homemade potato rolls with whipped honey butter, marinated mussels salad, grilled halloumi, Rhode Island-style fried calamari, grilled radishes, and Greek salad.
Entrees included Northwind Farms pork chop with apricot barbecue sauce, broccoli and cauliflower, pan-seared swordfish, wood-roasted eggplant, pan-seared scallops, mushroom agnolotti, and Northwind Farms ribeye with corn fritters, chipotle aioli and garlic scapes.
A true Berkshire fine dining experience – smart casual yet upscale, sophisticated yet rustic, with imaginative dishes that are beautifully presented and expertly prepared.
As we drove along the quiet country roads, Kato-san and I wondered how we should respond to this evening of exquisite dining.
Restaurant Reviews
Gedney Kitchen
Gedney Farm, 34 Hartsville-New Marlborough Road, New Marlborough
413-229-3131, gedneyfarm.com
time: Wednesday to Friday 5pm to 9pm
price: $7 to $45
