The Cooperage and Hideout Kitchen coexisted in Lafayette for years, but on separate lanes. The Cooperage served as a mature, mixed-use community hub, offering classic American bar and grill fare in the heart of the city's famous La Fiesta Square. A few blocks down, out of sight from outside on Mount Diablo Boulevard, this hideout is a kind of place with a popular weekend “booze brunch” and a menu of more pretentious comfort foods (see: waffle sandwiches). They prospered as the laid-back younger siblings. country fried steak, sausage gravy, and fried egg).
Things changed last fall when news suddenly broke that Cooperage's lease was up and it was moving to Walnut Creek's Broadway Plaza, and that Hideout would be taking its place. By January, both parties had settled on a new venue. At least when it comes to restaurants, it's no wonder you're getting a little bit of culinary whiplash with the speed at which everything has gone down. The two are inevitably linked in the hearts of Contra Costa diners, and we checked in to see how each is faring in their new digs.
Cooperatives: forward and upward
Run by veteran local restaurateur Jeff Dadum, Couparage looks like a well-oiled machine. Simply put, it felt like they were in good hands, so management decided to keep the brand and move almost the entire staff to Walnut Creek. This move makes a lot of sense. Manager and partner Amanda Cramer said the restaurant is organically increasing its food competitiveness within major metropolitan shopping centers while retaining many of its neighborhood patrons.
Sleek and contemporary with high ceilings, this new space, unlike the Lafayette restaurant, doesn't have a very inviting atmosphere, but it's still perfect for warmer months, especially when the garage-style windows open to the street. It has a strong presence. Cramer explains the restaurant's philosophy is to provide “a place where everyone can find food they love.” That was the case when we visited, and the place was buzzing with people of all ages, from families with young children and grandparents to couples and solo customers parked at the horseshoe-shaped bar. The kitchen, on the other hand, didn't miss a beat, deftly executing what could have been a run-of-the-mill menu with enough skill and panache to keep things interesting. The hearty burrata was cool and creamy, accented with sweet marinated chopped tomatoes, a swirl of balsamic vinegar, and a delicious garlicky homemade pesto sauce. Tender and chewy, cylindrical tuna tartare is seasoned with sweet chili sauce. The chicken sandwich also did not disappoint. The fried dark meat is melt-in-your-mouth tender, and each bite is filled with the sweetness of honey mustard and tangy, creamy coleslaw. A nod to classic French cuisine is evident in the luscious citrus beurre blanc sauce that envelops roasted winter vegetables and forms the base for a rich seared salmon fillet.
verdict:
Same smooth sailing, but different ships. thecooperagewc.com.
Hideout Kitchen: Coming Out Party
In many ways, Hideout's transition was more difficult. Not only did they have to expand their operations to a much larger location, but they also had to make direct comparisons, whether it was reasonable or not, with the restaurant they were moving into. But if anyone can do it, it's JB Balingit, a passionate chef, experienced restaurateur and radiator of culinary energy.
First of all, he inherited a great space with a spacious covered front patio and a charming lived-in interior divided into a bar section with high seating and a more intimate dining room. Balingit's team has created an atmosphere that feels younger and sharper than the generic all-American bar-and-grill theme of his predecessors. That also applies to the food, which departs from Couparage's classic approach to maximalist cuisine with a wider range of ingredients.
For example, the signature Honey Fried Chicken features a crackling, crispy breaded crust drizzled with honey and topped with candied orange peel.A wonderful version of flavorful dark meat flattened into a shape similar to the Japanese style. Cutlet– Thinness and gentleness of style.
The blackened salmon is also very delicious. The generous filet mignon was cooked to perfection and moist, with a smoky spice-rubbed skin balanced by crisp pesto verde and crunchy wontons. A rustic bed of brown rice and quinoa, topped with chopped mushrooms, broccoli, tomatoes, onions, and other vegetables, serves as a hearty base.
And the izakaya-style burger is absolutely devoured in one bite. The 8-ounce patty is loaded with Havarti cheese and topped with an over-easy fried egg.
There were some sloppy moments in the kitchen. When we visited, the fries that accompanied the burgers were underseasoned and over fried. The chicken side of the braised kale should have been good, but it was too salty. Meanwhile, Lafayette's overdressed salad contained wilted vegetables, chunks of tired brie, and tasteless pecans that needed toasting.
verdict:
A bright start with some growing pains. Hideaway Kitchen.com.