“Life's too short to eat crappy barbecue” is the cheeky motto of War Pigs, the barbecue catering company run by pitmaster Larry Hillix, and it's a fitting mantra for his new War Pigs Craft Kitchen in Santa Rosa.
The 12-hour smoked barbecue pulled pork sandwich ($15) on toasted brioche is a strong contender for my new favorite sandwich. It's piled high with crispy pork bark and velvety shreds of meat, topped with a tangy red sauce. Order the mouthwatering mustard sauce and spicy horseradish to dip into the meat that drops onto your tray.
Or omit the bun and go all-in with the Dirty Fries ($16), a mish-mash of skinny fries drenched in warm cheese, barbecue sauce, pulled pork and coleslaw. Fried Brussels ($5) are a small but satisfying side dish tossed in balsamic vinegar and topped with sweet and salty freshly shaved Parmesan and bacon on crispy leaves. I also love the creamy coleslaw.
You'll need to make a few more visits to sample the rest of the menu, which includes smoked chicken wings, grilled pork tacos, sliders, onion rings, fried chicken, smoked turkey club, and house-made minced meat burgers. The generous portions are reasonably priced, making it even better value.
War Pigs Craft Kitchen is located inside the Clubhouse Bar & Grill, run by the former owners of Whiskey Chip Bar. It replaces the Westside Grill, which closed in 2020. War Pigs Craft Kitchen is open daily from 11:30am to 8pm.
3082 Marlow Road, Santa Rosa, 707-508-5551, bbqhustlers.com