Spicy Thai food and umbrella cocktails at Hell's Kitchen

It's the season For umbrella cocktails. A fun spot to buy right now is Southern Thai Restaurant in Hell's Kitchen.

Chalong is a standout seafood Thai spot that's always been packed the three or four times I've been there, and will give up a seat if you're 10 minutes late for a reservation. It features a menu packed with inventive dishes and mostly tones down on the spiciness. (After all, this is Manhattan Thai, not Elmhurst Thai, but it's still great.) Portions are modest, so you won't leave hungry or stuffed, and prices are reasonable, especially in an era when the average price of entrees can feel high, especially in Manhattan.

The location was opened in 2023 by Nate Limwong, who grew up on the south coast of Thailand and trained in New York, Thailand and Australia.

drink: The illustrated cocktail menu features a map of Thailand drawn along the coastline and drinks with names like After School, made with pea vodka in a coupe, and Red Forest, made with Bombay Sapphire gin and beets. I went for Leonardo on the Beach, made with coconut rum, PX, matcha, pandan and kinako, served over pebble ice. It's a refreshing, green, tannic drink garnished with a thick shaving of coconut and, of course, an umbrella. Cocktails are $18, but many places charge more than $20 these days.

The cocktail list contrasts with lean drink options: one beer, two whites, two reds (both $17 by the glass), and an orange (bottle only).

Vibe: this The casual spot reveals the professional work behind it. Service is warm but not overly chatty. The melody is close to clubby, but not overbearing. And the timing of the food coming out is perfect.

Charon

Charon.

food: A fun meal worthy of its celebratory name.. There's Baerng golae ($16), a sweet and savory snack of coconut crisps with shrimp and curry that's eaten like a taco. Steamed dumplings ($15) look like cocooned noodles filled with radish and peanuts, with a hint of salted coconut.

Among the main dishes, a crab curry is spicy, with soft-shell crabs sitting in the center of a bowl in a smooth coconut velouté-like soup ($28). And the green wok topped with peanuts and sprinkled with chili peppers is a welcome contrast. The Picanha Claw Plow ($28), with sirloin, habanero, garlic and holy basil, looks a little boring, but it's not just peppers and meat, it's layered with seasoning and enough to keep you drinking another beer. It has a spicy taste. On another visit, I was seduced by Phra Tod ($36), a whole fried fish with sweet fish sauce, garlic and green onions.

Chip: We recommend sharing an appetizer, vegetables, and two dishes between two people. My order and my cocktail on a recent visit cost about $100 including tip and tax. Chalong's taste, service and price keep me coming back. Next time I will come to eat the shrimp fried rice.

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Prices are correct at the time of publication.

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