A celebrity chef known as much for his criticism as for his cooking has opened a new restaurant in an iconic dining room in downtown St. Louis.
British chef-turned-foul-mouthed TV personality Gordon Ramsay has opened his latest outpost, Ramsay's Kitchen, inside the Four Seasons Hotel.
The restaurant will take over the site of Cinder House, a Brazilian steakhouse from local chef Gerald Kraft, which closed earlier this year.
Ramsay's Kitchen, the concept's fifth installment, won't offer the same menu as his seven Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, nor will it make any blatant references to the reality TV shows like “Hell's Kitchen” and “Next Level Chef” for which Ramsay is best known in the U.S. Ramsay's Kitchen bills itself as “a glimpse into Chef Gordon Ramsay's culinary experiences around the world.” Entrees on the local menu include the signature beef Wellington, chickpea tikka masala and, in this case, a take on St. Louis-style ribs.
Theo R. Welling
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St. Louis Public Radio
Ramsay, who was in town to celebrate the restaurant's grand opening, spoke with St. Louis Public Radio's Abby Lorico.
This interview has been edited for clarity and length.
Abby Lorico: Chef, you are an internationally recognized global star with a globally recognized brand – why did you add St. Louis to your portfolio?
Gordon Ramsay: Yes, that's a pretty good question. First of all, I love what I do. I think that's obvious. And I've spent the last 20 years building this amazing company to highlight talent. St. Louis called me five years ago, but sadly, we got pushed back because of COVID. And now we have the grassroots impact. It's devastating with a lot of restaurants closing, as you've read. The negative situation of how are we going to keep paying rent, taxes, labor costs. So when this opportunity came up, I've been a big fan all the way down from Chicago. What St. Louis represents, the DNA, the ribs, the sauce, the farm to table, the multi-ethnic melting pot that's going on here. So it's been a bit of a long-term goal to be a part of this vibrant scene. And the timing is right and the location is great. We're right on the Mississippi River. It's not often that a chef gets to dream of having a restaurant here. I mean, the stars aligned.
Loriko: So it seems you were well aware that St. Louis is a foodie city.
Ramsay: Oh really. Yes, it's very lively. It's like one of those sleeping beauties of the culinary world, it's in a league of its own. Nobody does it. It's done in its own way, without being arrogant. It's a very confident style of cooking. I had dinner at Vicia last night and the local talent was outstanding. The chef lives by the ingredients and produce. He embraces the seasonal elements. It's untouched and untouched. It's a great example of what a restaurant should be today. Frugal. Delicious. Handmade. And fantastic. Absolutely fantastic. They've raised the bar. To be a part of that scene? Honestly, that's my ambition.
Loriko: That being said, we have a pretty good scene and a lot of established local people, so why would people come to your restaurant when they have limited options for food and, frankly, limited money to spend on eating out?
Ramsay: Well, I think you should ask that question not to me, but to our customers. But from my perspective, our customers vote with their feet. We have a unique environment. We have a great menu. It's an incredibly local team, a talented local team. The R&D and research that went into the menu was extraordinary. We tailor it to the local context. So we're not so stupid to just copy and paste, to take a Boston menu and bring it to St. Louis. So it's a unique environment, a unique offering. And Ramsay's Kitchen is centered around family. There's something here for everyone, whether it's family, for 10, for six, Sunday lunch, Saturday dinner, date night. And it's been a long time in the making. It's not a label thing where you stick your name on the door and something happens. The most exciting thing to me is what's going on in the kitchen and in the dining room. You see their talent, their willingness to learn, their eagerness to grow and improve, and you know this restaurant is a platform for them.
Theo R. Welling
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St. Louis Public Radio
Loriko: You mentioned that the idea of coming back after the state of the restaurant industry over the past few years was a big influence on your St. Louis kitchen. Have you had a chance to talk to the staff there, the people working in the kitchen and even the front of house, and what was it like opening this “nice Midwestern” restaurant?
Ramsay: Yes, that's a good question. The Midwest is very supportive. They're hardworking, they're focused. And they're not getting carried away. There's no glittering lights like New York or Miami or South Beach. It's a very humble environment. When you start talking to the team, you see the devastation that's been left in their lives, the number of establishments that literally closed three years ago, the places that closed. I'm happy to be part of that grassroots movement. We opened up reservations six weeks ago and had 30,000 reservations in the first 10 days. You only hear those stories in the stadiums, you don't hear those stories in the restaurants. So it's a double-edged sword. We have to maintain those standards, we have to keep that pace, we don't get carried away. We have a great support team in St. Louis that we coach, we support, we help. And when we roll out new specials, new dishes, new menus, we move together. And that's very important to me.
Loriko: You'll notice that this dining room isn't just in a great geographic location. It's in a key geographic location in the heart of downtown, it's on the riverbank, and it has an arch. But what do you think about arches?
Ramsay: It's an iconic place. It really is. We're lucky to have great restaurants all around, but to me this is one of the most beautiful places. It was also built in 1963 and it was a symbol of the reshaping of St. Louis. So to be given the opportunity to run this restaurant here? Ramsay's Kitchen is a full-fledged restaurant. We're a gateway to this neighborhood. It's amazing.
Loriko: And right now, downtown St. Louis, unlike a lot of other downtowns, is facing a bit of a difficult situation, and this place is part of it. And especially for those of us who are really rooting for the continued success and positive momentum of downtown St. Louis, why should we trust such an important part of our city with such an outsider?
Ramsay: First of all, don't think of ourselves as outsiders. We're downtown. And when you think about the jobs that this business creates and what it brings to families, the income, it's so important. My previous restaurant was sadly falling into disuse. We're going to revitalize it there, create 250 jobs, and open more restaurants within the Gordon Ramsay Group. I'm excited. So this is not a separation. This is an amalgamation of relighting that fire and being part of the lighthouse that's coming back with a grassroots effect. So, like I said, we've done enough negative stuff. The city's been hit so hard. And sadly, just like when Rams left, we have to bounce back and bounce back. And Ramsay's Kitchen is part of that bounce back. But if you look at the excitement every morning, I spoke to the cooks yesterday, they arrive at 4 a.m., 12 young people are here until noon, and then they start going to culinary school. That's pretty significant. They're locals, and they're committed to this restaurant. That will be acknowledged.
Theo R. Welling
/
St. Louis Public Radio
Loriko: Some people will assume what it means because it has a celebrity chef's name on it. Others will say they've seen it on TV and they know what to expect so they don't need to go. Others will go because they assume they know who you are because you're a TV personality. Is there anything that these two groups don't expect when they come and dine here?
Ramsay: Customers are on the front line. They vote with their feet. They don't call and say they're not coming anymore. They just won't come again. What can they expect? Unique standards. Great food, a non-intimidating atmosphere with a focus on locally sourced ingredients, and exciting service that offers something unique. And a little bit of fun. We need fun. As you know, our country is heading towards a new election and there's a lot of uncertainty. So, breaking bread on non-judgmental ground and having fun with friends and family is what Ramsay's Kitchen is all about.
